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| SET-UPS AND GENERAL CAR TUNING |
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Impreza_wrcsti
Joined: 17 Nov 2003
Posts: 677
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 Posted: Sun Aug 22, 15:58 |
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Differential
Use the Differentials to change the minimum and maximum settings of your differentials.
Definition
A differential in your car has three jobs:
1. It transmits the engine�s power to the wheels.
2. It allows the wheels at each end of an axle to rotate at different speeds.
3. It acts as the final gear reduction in the car, slowing the rotational speed of the transmission one last time before the power reaches the wheels.
All the differentials on your car have a range from 0% friction (i.e. free turning) to 100% friction (i.e. locked). The term LOCK refers to the degree (as a percentage) that the differential locks up under the three inputs of throttle, brake and speed. A locked differential means both wheels on the axle rotate at exactly the same speed.
Differential Maps
The differential maps let you adjust the gradual progression from 0-100% differential lock pressure in relation to the various inputs (throttle, brake and overall speed). This controls the way all three differentials of the car (front, centre and rear), operate.
Note: The ECU (Engine Control Unit) always looks for the highest locking figure of the throttle, brake or speed maps and uses those settings.
Centre Differential:
This map is used in conventional or straight line driving.
ACTION - EFFECT ON BALANCE - OTHER EFFECTS
Decrease percentage - More oversteer - Less stable under braking
Increase percentage - More understeer - More stable under braking
(more locked)
Centre L. Foot:
IMPORTANT: ADVANCED DRIVERS
The car's ECU overrides the Centre Differential map if you use both brake and throttle simultaneously. This technique is commonly known as left foot braking.
ACTION - EFFECT ON BALANCE - OTHER EFFECTS
Decrease percentage - More oversteer - Less stable under braking
Increase percentage - More understeer - More stable under braking
Tip: Centre L Foot differential settings should be lower than those of the centre differential, as this helps you to turn the car into a bend.
Front
ACTION - POSITIVE EFFECT - NEGATIVE EFFECTS
Decrease percentage - Easier to turn car into bend - Less traction on exit from bend
Increase percentage - More traction on exit - More difficult to turn car into (more locked) from bend bend and torque steer on exit
Tip: Less percentage of front differential lock on tarmac than gravel stages.
Rear
ACTION - POSITIVE EFFECT - NEGATIVE EFFECTS
Decrease percentage - Very slight increase in high speed stability - Loss of traction
Increase percentage - More traction - Understeer in tight bends
Tip: As a general rule, you should keep these values fairly high. For example, if 50% of throttle input (i.e. how hard you push the throttle control) is set to 25% LOCK and the differential torque is 600Nm the actual differential torque in this state would be 150Nm.
DIFFERENTIAL TORQUE
This is the maximum locking pressure of the differential and is measured in Newton Metres (Nm).
Note: These values are optimised for each of the vehicles and stages in the game. If you consider figures to be maximums, you might want to adjust settings within the Differential Maps.
Max. Centre Diff. Torque:
ACTION PRIMARY EFFECT OTHER EFFECTS
Decrease percentage - More input-sensitive handling - Increased chance of oversteer
Increase percentage - More stable - Increased chance of understeer
Max. Front Diff. Torque:
ACTION - PRIMARY EFFECT - OTHER EFFECTS
Decrease percentage - Less front-wheel traction - Exiting tight corners easier
Increase percentage - More front-wheel traction - More difficult to accurately control steering
Max. Rear Diff. Torque:
ACTION - PRIMARY EFFECT - OTHER EFFECTS
Decrease percentage - Less traction - Helps prevent understeer
Increase percentage - Increase traction through rear wheels on exit from a bend - May cause some understeer
Handbrake Release:
Note: As well as activating the car�s rear brakes in unison, the handbrake also releases the transmission�s drive to the rear wheels by opening the centre differential. The percentage value relates to the amount of pressure needed on the controller input
to release the centre differential, helping you to perform a perfect handbrake turn.
Foot Brake Threshold:
The percentage value relates to the amount of pressure needed on the controller input to make the Centre L Foot differential map override the centre diff map when throttle is applied.
Tip: Use a controller configuration that allows you to press both throttle and brake controls at the same time as changing gear.
Suspension
This set of menus allows you to change the car�s handling setup. For both rough and smooth surfaces, dampers and springs can be adjusted to good effect. Tight and twisty stages may require tweaks to your car�s geometry and anti-roll bars.
Note: Any changes in values made to the suspension must be equal with the car�s opposite side. For example, a change made to the Left Front Rebound setup should be duplicated in the Right Front Rebound.
Dampers
The damper dissipates (or damps) the energy of the wheel when it hits a bump. It also controls the rate of the wheel�s return towards the road, which would otherwise be influenced by the spring�s rebound alone.
Note: All figures are measured in Kilo Newtons per metre per second. (kN/m/s).
Bump: This is the energy absorbed within the damper while hitting a bump or ridge in the road. Increasing this value makes the car feel more rigid. Decreasing this value will make the car feel softer.
Tip: If you set the bump value too high, the car will have a tendency to bounce off the road. Set it too low and it will not do its job of absorbing the bump�s energy.
Rebound: Rebound setting controls the speed with which the damper extends after compression, which returns the tyre to the road.
Tip: The lower the setting, the more traction your car will find. Too soft, and the vehicle will tend to �pogo�.
Fast Bump: Fast Bump works in the same way as the Bump settings, and is to combat the bigger ruts, potholes or jumps you might encounter on a stage. Fast Bump does not relate to the speed of the car, it describes the speed of the damper compressing as a result of a large impact.
F Bump Threshold: The Fast Bump Threshold is the speed (measured in metres per second) that allows your fast bump settings to override your bump settings.
Tip: A high setting may mean that the Fast Bump Threshold is never reached. Too low and you�ll always be above the threshold.
Springs
There are two types of spring on the suspension, one is the main spring and the other is the helper spring. The main spring does the majority of the work under loaded situations. The helper spring comes into play when the wheel is on light load to provide extra
traction or, when it�s unloaded, to ensure full extension of the damper.
Spring Length: Adjusting this value alters the car�s ride height and length of suspension travel.
Tip: There are easier ways to change the ride height. Adjust strut platform height within the Geometry menu. For the purposes of car setup we recommend leaving the spring length on default.
Spring Stiffness: This is the amount of effort it takes to compress the spring. Therefore the higher the number the stiffer the spring becomes. The lower the number, the softer the spring. This will obviously effect the car�s handling when going over bumps.
Tip: Fast, high-speed stages will benefit from higher spring stiffness. For muddy or snowy conditions a softer (lower) spring setting may be advantageous.
Note: The helper spring length and stiffness has been optimised for each vehicle, so we recommend that you leave them at their default settings.
Geometry (Front and Rear)
The Geometry menus allow you to change the wheel alignment of the car and its ride height. These descriptions relate to the Front and Rear of the car.
Top Mount Position: The top mount position is the mount at the top of the strut (where it is connected to the car). Move this back and forth to change the caster.
Tip: The bigger the minus caster figure you use, the better the car makes its initial turn-in. However, this can increase the bump steer (i.e. the car�s propensity to be diverted by bumps).
Front Roll Bar Stiffness: This affects the speed that the car�s weight moves across the axle between the two front wheels. The higher the figure, the stiffer the roll bar and the slower the change of weight distribution.
Tip: A lower setting gives quicker initial turn in on entry to bends. Higher settings give the car greater high-speed stability.
Rear Roll Bar Stiffness: This affects the speed that the car�s weight moves across the axle between the two rear wheels. The higher the figure, the stiffer the roll bar and the slower the change of weight distribution
Tip: Lower settings (softer) result in added traction, but can provoke understeer. If conditions are wet, perhaps lower (softer ) settings for both front and rear roll bars.
Pirelli Tyres
As the Pirelli tyre is worked through braking, acceleration and cornering, the tyre pressure increases as the air inside heats up and expands. Pressure referred to in the menus is a cold tyre pressure.
Tip: On long, hot stages, you may find running a slightly lower pressure will be beneficial.
Brakes
This section enables you to change the balance between the front and rear of the car, and the overall maximum breaking pressure.
Max Brake Pressure: This is the maximum breaking pressure on the wheels. Increasing this pressure too much causes the wheels to lock and the car to skid. On a loose, wet or icy surface, you�ll need less power to initiate wheel lock.
Tip: If you are happy with the balance of your car, keep the brake power distribution ratio consistent between Front and Rear Brakes. If the rear brake bias is too high the rear of the car may tend to step out. If the front bias is too high, the car may tend to
lock up and it�ll be difficult to get the back of the car to break away on corners.
Brake Bias: This is a percentage of the total breaking power being applied to the respective set of wheels. The total always equals 1.
Brake Diameter: This indicates the size of the brake disc.
Gear
This section enables you to change the drop gear within the gearbox to enable a higher top speed/lower acceleration, or lower top speed/faster acceleration. Making this choice will all depend on how fast or tight and twisty the stage may be.
Gear Guard: Use Gear Guard to protect the gearbox from down-changes where you would otherwise damage your engine.
Drop Gear
The drop gear drops the overall ratios of your car so that it is better suited to a particular style of stage.
Long: Maximum top speed, slowest acceleration.
Medium: Medium top speed, medium acceleration.
Short: Slowest top speed, maximum acceleration.
Tip: If you are on the rev limiter for a long period of time, you might need to extend your gear ratios. Select MEDIUM or LONG. If you aren�t achieving maximum revs in top gear, perhaps use shorter ratios.
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Moderator and Administrator
Xpand Rally - CMR 4 - CMR 5 - Richard Burns Rally
Last edited by Impreza_wrcsti on Wed Sep 22, 08:47; edited 1 time in total |
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Mikko
Game Master
Joined: 14 Oct 2003
Posts: 910
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| Posted: Tue Aug 31, 01:53 |
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Default in the beta for the rear differential is 100% lock at all times. Very bizarre. When I changed it to something more approaching that if the front differnetial, the car goes into extreme instability and oversteer anytime I lift off the pedal. So much it is scary undrivable.
By locking the differential a bit more at higher speeds, and by making it lock 80% at 0% throttle, that behaviour stopped however. Oddities  I need to learn more.
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Gee
Joined: 28 Dec 2003
Posts: 139
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| Posted: Tue Aug 31, 11:26 |
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Beware the diff uses the highest of the 3 settings! So it is a must to ALWAYS change the rear diff maps(BUG).
my settings look something like this:
I let the accelaration map go just from 0-100, like 0% acc= 0% lock 30% acc= 30% lock. so coasting gives the speed lock= lift of the gas and the car turns in more at speed pre defined at the speed map, like 60-70 or so.
brake map is a more progressive thing as no brake= 0% lock but start to rise the lock at 30% brake quite rapidly and at 50% its full lock all the way, gives a manoverbility at small brake aplikation and stability when braking hard.
speed map. at low speed you want manuverbility= 0% lock but as the speed goes over 60-70kmh some stability is needed so start locking the diff and get a full lock at 200kmh
this is a start, hopfully it makes some sense!
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Mikko
Game Master
Joined: 14 Oct 2003
Posts: 910
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| Posted: Tue Aug 31, 18:01 |
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And how does this make the car behave? I tried doing basically that and it would oversteer like MAAAD when lifting off the throttle at speed.
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Gee
Joined: 28 Dec 2003
Posts: 139
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| Posted: Tue Aug 31, 18:22 |
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| Quote: |
| And how does this make the car behave? I tried doing basically that and it would oversteer like MAAAD when lifting off the throttle at speed |
dont forget the speed map, start to lock the diffs around 60-70 up to full lock at 200!!! as I wrote, so that the car just overstears at controllable speeds, and is pritty stable at liftoffs at high speeds!!!!
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From an unknown land and through distant skies came a winged warrior. Nothing remained sacred, no one was safe from the Hellion as it uttered its battle cry...Screaming for Vangeance.
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Renaz
Joined: 17 Nov 2003
Posts: 327
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| Posted: Thu Sep 09, 14:55 |
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Ok, guys have so interesting news for you. Had a phone talk with one friend rally driver yesterday, asked to help with car setups. He went into to details, but we agreed that I will send screenshots of car tuning section to him.
After doing that today i got replay somthing like "Wooowww that's awsome! developers included every single thing in to this setup. I'm amazed, have to look deeper into that. Will let you know more as soon as I have more time to prepare the real data, or what setup would I do".
Some other thoughts were:
1. 100% diff lock is nonsence, 40 % is by far enough,
2. Had some coments on caster and camber (let you know exact values soon)
3. Had some comments on tarmac setup (haven't tried the game) - the way is it look now is unrealistic, car should slide a alot and have a lot of understeer going into the corner, and huge oversteer going out of it, though on straights it should "run like train" ( This is a fact - just go very slow (20 km/h) and notice tire rubber scraching noice when steering - this means too much lock)
I'll do futher investigations and hopefully invite him to check the setup behind the wheel, then I will do some screenshots and post it here. Do not ask "then?". I just hope to get it at all...
Will be posting updates! CU
Last edited by Renaz on Thu Sep 09, 15:05; edited 1 time in total |
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Impreza_wrcsti
Joined: 17 Nov 2003
Posts: 677
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| Posted: Thu Sep 09, 15:03 |
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| Renaz wrote: |
Ok, guys have so interesting news for you. Had a phone talk with one friend rally driver yesterday, asked to help with car setups. He went into to details, but we agreed that I will send screenshots of car tuning section to him.
After doing that today i got replay somthing like "Wooowww that's awsome! developers included every single thing in to this setup. I'm amazed, have to look deeper into that. Will let you know more as soon as I have more time to prepare the real data, or what setup would I do".
Some other thoughts were:
1. 100% diff lock is nonsence, 40 % is by far enough,
2. Had some coments on caster and camber (let you know exact values soon)
3. Had some comments on tarmac setup (haven't tried the game) - the way is it look now is unrealistic, car should slide a alot and have a lot of understeer going into the corner, and huge oversteer going out of it, though on straights it should "run like train" ( This is a fact - just go very slow (20 km/h) and notice tire rubber scraching noice when steering - this means too much lock)
I'll do futher investigations and hopefully invite him to check the setup behind the wheel, the do some screenshots and post it here. Do not ask "then?". I just hope to get it at all...
Will be posting updates! CU |
Thats great. I look forward to that. I have huge problems setting the car up for tarmac so I hope you both can come up with something. Cheers!
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Xpand Rally - CMR 4 - CMR 5 - Richard Burns Rally
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Renaz
Joined: 17 Nov 2003
Posts: 327
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| Posted: Thu Sep 09, 15:28 |
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One question though...
Which diff map is used when throtle is at 100% and speed is 20 km/h? Throtle map or speed map? Or should I understand that if throtle is at 100% map is 100%, but speed map is 20%...then actual diff lock will be 20 %?... or 100 %?
After answering this question everything should be much esier... |
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Gee
Joined: 28 Dec 2003
Posts: 139
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| Posted: Thu Sep 09, 16:38 |
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| Quote: |
| Which diff map is used when throtle is at 100% and speed is 20 km/h? Throtle map or speed map? Or should I understand that if throtle is at 100% map is 100%, but speed map is 20%...then actual diff lock will be 20 %?... or 100 %? |
it will use the one of the 3 thats highest!
| Quote: |
Some other thoughts were:
1. 100% diff lock is nonsence, 40 % is by far enough, |
100% means 100% of the diff tourqe!! NOT a fully locked diff
This is how I understand it, hope I�m right!
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From an unknown land and through distant skies came a winged warrior. Nothing remained sacred, no one was safe from the Hellion as it uttered its battle cry...Screaming for Vangeance.
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Renaz
Joined: 17 Nov 2003
Posts: 327
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| Posted: Thu Sep 09, 22:36 |
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| Just look on the text in the setup screen - LOCK above editable figures... |
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Destroy
Joined: 11 Jun 2004
Posts: 264
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| Posted: Fri Sep 10, 04:30 |
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I've messed around with setting a bit but don't really notice much change in car feel or traction.
Can someone please recomment to me what EXACTLY I need to change so that under steady or off throttle slow speed turns, the car doesn't understeer so badly?
Basically I want maximum traction at lower speeds up front.
I'm getting sick of running off the track.  |
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Renaz
Joined: 17 Nov 2003
Posts: 327
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| Posted: Fri Sep 10, 09:03 |
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| Yes I noticed that, on weat tarmac understier is incredible and not realistic, it's almost impossible to turn car on lower speeds... |
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Impreza_wrcsti
Joined: 17 Nov 2003
Posts: 677
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| Posted: Fri Sep 10, 15:38 |
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Ok I need a little help with the problem of braking on dry tarmac. No matter where I set the brake bias the car just seems to want to spin around every time I brake. Even in a straight line when I press the brake the rear snaps out and there is nothing I can do. Anyone out there that has any ideas? Thanks!
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Exe
Joined: 21 Feb 2004
Posts: 268
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| Posted: Fri Sep 10, 15:56 |
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| i suppose, this is normal, if there is not abs in the car, the car will never stop in a straigt line and don't forget that you have sport brakes in subaru... |
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Klem
Joined: 06 Jul 2004
Posts: 46
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| Posted: Fri Sep 10, 16:36 |
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| Impreza_wrcsti wrote: |
| Ok I need a little help with the problem of braking on dry tarmac. No matter where I set the brake bias the car just seems to want to spin around every time I brake. Even in a straight line when I press the brake the rear snaps out and there is nothing I can do. Anyone out there that has any ideas? Thanks! |
I would suggest you to alter your front torque to about 400Nm reduce rear to 750Nm maybe. Adjust rear brake to 6000. Be gentle on brake pedal...brake with engine also....
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