| DTR Sprint Cars Facts : | ||
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| Below you will find explanations for all setup options. Tire Pressure: Is basically the equalizer for the end of the racecar. You usually want to start out on 12.0 on all tires. The higher the pressure the longer the tire will last, the lower the pressure the shorter time they last. At the end of the race your tires should be a yellow/brownish/orange. If the tire is red at the end of the race you should raise the pressure on that tire. Brake Strength: Brake strength is like a stabilizer of your tires. Starting left front to right rear. The more brake strength on the left front will help you turn, at the same time the front right the more you have will equal out and the car won't turn as much. Basically the left and right rear should be the same the more you have will slow the car down, even though you don't use the break that much .The break still drags when you let off the gas. Tire Size: Is a big thing .You want to run the smallest tire you can with the highest RPM you can get. You want to start the front tires at 84.0 and work your way up or down. If you make the left front smaller than the right front it is like stagger and it helps you turn better. You want to start the rear tires at 100 and work your way up or down. Mostly down on left rear. Right rear is like anchor the higher the size the better you will turn. Which is called stagger. Tire Compound: This works with your tire pressure. The wetter the track the softer the tire you should use. Softer tires are the best to use. They stick better. It depends on the weight which tires get hot and last longer. The harder the tire the longer they last. The end of each race the tires should be a Brown/Green/Orange color. Red is very bad! The redder the tire the more control you lose. The harder the tire the more tracking you get and may pull wheelies on the start and coming out of corners. Torsion Bar: Is a big part of the setup! The left front and right front helps you push or stay tight depending on the degree of the set. The more you go up on the bar the set will have more of a push. The lower you go on the bar, the less push you will have. Left rear the higher you go the looser the set the lower you go the more push you get and make it push. Right rear you want to run as low as possible. The higher you get the tighter the car (more push). Travel: It is like tying down the car. The rear Tires you should run as low as possible (5.0). Front should start out at 12. If it feels like the front is coming off the ground you should lower it. Be careful of lowering it too much, it will slow the car and or make it spin out. Compression Rate: First put them all on .20. The left rear is the most important. The Left rear will help you turn the car. If you go to high you will spin out! The shorter the track the higher you will go (left rear). Right rear if you don't get enough from the left rear add a little to the right rear. This will help it turn better. Left and Right front if you want some bite add some to it (if the front is sliding coming out of corners), most likely on shorter tracks to get more bite. (Increments of 5's or 1's) Rebound Rate: Is to make the car squat or not squat. Mostly here you will work with the rear the more you add to the rear the more the car will squat. You DO NOT want to move the front. Keep that as low as it goes. By making the car squat you get more traction. Squatting the rear end will not let the front end come up off the ground and give you more traction coming out of the corners. Chassis & Weight: The weight is the most Important thing on the setup! If you want forward push coming off the corner you want to add weight to the right front. The left front adding weight here will give you some bite coming off the corner. (Like tying down the front end) Right rear is more for sliding (counter Balance). Left Rear more weight given here helps turn the car.Right Rear Spacing: Like having a steering wheel without turning. The Higher you go with the spacing the more the car will turn. If your car is over turning lower the spacing by intranets of 1 till the car straightens up. Throws the balance off in the rear to help steer the car threw the corner at high speed. Steering Lock: Is more for comfort. Lower you have steering lock the less the car will plow, and determines how fast the front wheels turn. (Be careful you don't want your wheels to be over steering) Wing Position: Forward is better 0.00. By moving you wing back gives you more traction on the rear tires. Be careful doing this it will tighten the car up really fast. If you start a race and the car is loose. You can put your wing back and it will tighten the car up for you. This is very difficult to do during a race. Wing Pitch: helps breaking up the turns. Helps you turn. The higher you go on the pitch the more you will turn (helps best on sharp curves). Wicker bill: Is a traction devise. Its best to have it attached. Gear Ratio: Is difficult to determine the gear. A good rule of thumb to go by is redlining the car before the finish line off turn four. You want it to almost red line just before the finish line on the front stretch and imagine the finish line on the backstretch. You don't want to spin the tires in the corner. SUMMARY The rule of thumb on picking the right gear for a ¾ mile ½ mile to a ¼ mile track is. ¾ mile you should use a 5.15 to start and go down or up from there. A ½ mile you should use a 5.20 go up or down and a ¼ mile you should use a 6.05 gear to start then lower it down from their if you have tire spin. The rule of thumb is the slower you go in the corner without spinning the tires is you will be faster when you exit the corner (Slower is Faster). Going into a corner you do not want to slide up the track. You want to stick at the bottom. The hardest thing to do is crack the throttle going into a corner. If you can get that down you have it set. At the start of a race if you have trouble popping wheelies theirs two reasons for this having a very high gear and punching the throttle. The Cure is lower the gear or feather the gas till you get enough RPMs to punch it. The line is difficult to stay on all tracks. Most line are down by the burm or rail. For example Terre Haut Speedway this track is very slick and pushy. Starting line going into turn one. Get close to the black line you want to put your front left tire on it. All the way threw the turns into the exit. Make sure you don't touch the grass or that stupid rail it bites and it don't let go! If it lets go your going for a ride. Coming out of turn two you want to imagine the finish lines right there in the center of the straight away. You want to go straight to the wall (DON'T SLIDE AND DON'T HIT THE WALL). When you get to your imaginary finish line crank it and hit the line going into turn three ride the line come out of four head up to the wall and do the same thing going into one. Only crack the throttle halfway threw the turn, just enough to set the car to the turn (Just enough for the tires to bite). |
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Comments : |
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| Author: David Harrison | 12-05-2003 |
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Very nice guide. A wonderful addition to our Sprint Car Section. Thanks from all of us at BHMS. |
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| Author: john | 24-07-2003 |
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Excellent!!! You must race in real life. |
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| Author: BIGGUY | 16-05-2004 |
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GREAT ARTICLE!!!! |
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| Author: Legend | 28-05-2004 |
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Excellent article...... |
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| Author: Mike | 01-09-2004 |
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Nice guide but with the tortion bars the softer you go on one corner of the car the more traction you get on that wheel so with a stiff right rear bar you will be looser than with a soft right rear bar |
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